Double Shirting
A styling technique that takes a simple outfit to the next level in one easy step. Here's what you need to know about how to layer shirts.
This week, your ONE-PIECE newsletter is all about the subtle art of layering shirts. Each week I’ll be selecting a garment, accessory or trend to analyse and style in the hope that you’ll find something new or interesting to play around with in your own wardrobe.
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The best ideas come from places of boredom. Whenever I felt bored growing up, my Mother or Grandmother would always say something along the lines of “well, do something, I’m not stopping you.” Of course, they were right. Funnily enough, the activities I decided to do in those moments as a kid are things I’m still doing today as a bigger kid: creating my own magazines, making silly TV shows with my family’s video camera and playing dress up. For me, boredom has always been the perfect environment for creativity.
I’ve found myself coming back to this week’s ONE-PIECE, a styling technique, whenever I’m feeling bored uninspired with what’s going on inside my wardrobe. It’s easy to do if you already own some shirts in different colours and fits. Don’t fret if not, I’ve got a few shopping options for you that match what I’m making from my wardrobe.
So, let’s talk double shirting.
Why Double Shirting?
This isn’t something new. You’ll have grown up with layering a short-sleeve tee over a long-sleeve and this isn’t much different. If you want to make the most out of your wardrobe, using this as a styling technique can breathe new life into what you already have and assist you in making better purchasing decisions in the future (especially if you’re trying to convince yourself to buy designer with the cost-per-wear idea).
The best part is how simple this is. If you’re wearing a shirt and pants out for dinner, a date or somewhere that requires something a little smarter, double shirting is a subtle addition that can take your look to the next level. It’s impressive without being try-hard.
Most recently, I noticed Zegna styling with double shirting on their FW24 runway. Prada also hinted at it in FW23 with their suit jackets that had a hidden shirting layer buttoned into the lapel. There could be more next season!
The idea about this style is, in a way, a bit of a gimmick because you’re doing more than just a shirt and pants. It carries a certain effortless vibe that says you’ve rushed to leave the house and thrown some clothes on. The addition of that extra shirt adds complexity without looking like you’ve tried, which, if you ask me, is the ultimate first impression (and it is what makes this styling technique such a go-to).
3 Steps to Master Double Shirting
A few brands like to do all the layering work for you, which might be helpful if you want to wear the style without doing the work. This black cotton layered shirt from Bassike and a navy layered shirt by Dries Van Noten at SSENSE are currently on the market.
While adding an extra shirt is easy in concept, there are a few things you need to keep in mind to make sure it looks right in the mirror. Follow these steps in order:
Step one: Fit. If you’ve ever tried to layer shirts before and it hasn’t turned out how you had imagined, this is probably where it went wrong. The key to making it work is fit. Your base, the shirt closest to your body, must be smaller in size and fit than the shirt you layer on top. You don’t want to see the outline of the shirt underneath your layered shirt. In the look I’ve styled below, I’m wearing a casual fit shirt in medium with an oversized/box cut shirt in large. Doing this avoids adding extra size to your body shape from fabric grouping and you’ll also find you won’t have to adjust how the shirts sit on your body from general moving around.
Pictured: I’m wearing an oversized short-sleeve seersucker shirt from COS layered over a casual shirt from Jac+Jack (their shirting style is perfect for a base layer). I’ve paired this with Rick Owens jeans and Prada sneakers. The shopping links take you to GANNI for their beige washed satin shirt and green striped oversized shirt (which I’ve worn in this Instagram reel).
Step two: Texture and colour. This is the fun part. If you’re layering shirts to achieve a monochrome look, I encourage you to play around with textures in the same colour. In the picture below, I’ve styled a deep brown seersucker shirt over a silk shirt in warm brown. If you want to play around with different colours, ensure you’re keeping them in the same or similar tonal family. Warm tones work well with deep tones, and soft tones work well with cool. In the picture above, I used a muted sand colour with a muted green.
If you're using a monochrome palette, the base layer of your double shirting should be the lighter shade. When it comes to mixing colours, make the more muted of the two your base layer. And any textured or print heavy shirts should always be your layered shirt.
Pictured: A Ludovic de Saint Sernin brown seersucker shirt over a Valentino brown silk shirt. I’ve worn this with Joseph Carl pants and Prada loafers. The shopping links will take you to a folded-collar cotton shirt in black from Jac+Jack and a zip-up boxy shirt in black from Song For The Mute at Harrolds.
Step three: Styling for the occasion. For a work function, tuck two shirts of similar texture and colour into a good pair of trousers. You’ll be showing off a little because you’re wearing something none of your colleagues will be without being overly bold in a corporate space (pictured below). This could also work for a dinner party, or somewhere you’re required to dress smarter than casual. For anything else, leave your shirts out and pair them with cargo pants, wide-leg pants or jeans—even shorts! I particularly love seeing the layered shirt shorter in length than the base shirt. There’s a bit of complexity in that while still looking like you’ve thrown some clothes on.
Pictured: A Miu Miu shirt over a casual shirt from Jac+Jack. The shopping links will take you to a folded-collar cotton shirt in vintage blue from Jac+Jack and a short-sleeved striped shirt from COS.
If you have a garment, accessory or styling technique you want me to explore, drop it in the comments! A Cowboy Hat? No worries. Three-quarter shorts? Consider it done. Whatever you do, subscribe now so you can have ONE-PIECE come directly to you in your inbox.